Gili T is a home to expats from the western world and locals from the nearest main island Lombok. Although most of the workers you meet at the different bars and cafe commute everyday from the different neighboring islands.
The locals are in their vast if not total majority muslim. Some will say there is tension between us but I truly saw very little of this. So little I would probably say that if any, it’s due to cultural differences normal between two contrasting cultures.
They like to pray 4 times a day. We like to pretend our first drink is always after midday.
One thing we (westerns) can all agree on, is that sensation that we’re walking ATMs for them. A feeling hard to shake off. I choose to believe that beneath that lays a genuine interest to get to know their passing by visitors. As they are a unfeigned culture of service.
-
Greeting everyone as if we were long lost friends is part of their nature. I’ve seen the best smile and for the very first time, up close cotton trees. I also learned goats are ones to pet until they start charging their head against you. As a good western you’ll naturally freak out due to the lack of understanding.
If you wake up before 6:00am, you will not only see an amazing sunrise but also, if looking closely, that chickens and rosters, alike, sleep on high up tree branches. I am unsure if they can actually fly there or just flap and jump until reaching the desired height.
In one of my many early walks, I noticed how all locals live very modestly. Often next to flamboyant new accommodations aimed for the fancy us. I wondered how come they didn’t seem to mind and even more so how all of them seemed uninterested in the commodities of western style living. Indoor kitchens, showers and toilets included.
Their houses were often composed of one room for all and in the dirt floor outside area, they would have their kitchen, shower, toilet and a lounging area. The later one is a raised floor structure with a straw roof. No bigger than 4 by 4.
What shocked me the most of this was the lack of envy vibe I felt. As a matter of fact, they couldn’t have been friendlier when they saw me walking by leaving my fancy Airbnb. I share this astonishment next to how they manage to keep a slim waistline whilst eating rice everyday, with every meal; breakfast include.
Every other person will either try to sell you a diving course, a 3 stop snorkeling boat ride, a massage, an all you can eat seafood barbecue or magic mushrooms. And please beware when offered a few puffs of a joint by a friendly islander pretending to be your friend; as for sure you will be asked for a token of your appreciation in cash.
They say on average 3,000 tourists land everyday in this tiny little island. By the way, there is the best boat service between islands I have ever seen. The company Ekaja Fast Boat has this double decker ferries where you can either choose to sunbathe at the top (interpret that as roast) or enjoy the ride at the downstairs air conditioned area whilst watching a movie. They even have snacks and beer on board for sale.
Their logistic is incredibly impressive. With several smaller connecting boats and middle of the sea water platforms for in route changes. All their staff are also adequately uniformed.
On ground on the main island, things can get a little shady, though. Taxi drivers will want to rip you off the offered complimentary shuttle service and you might get a van filled with cockroaches. If you do, do not hesitate on going to the office and requesting a car without the nasties.
Your assigned driver will try to dissuade you and argue that they are just friendly creatures; but there is no reason you have to suffer for your 2 or 3 hour ride into town.
Back on the tiny Gilli T, so small it can literally be walked all around in 2 hours at a granny pace. Beeware, though, of ending up in the wrong side of the island as you will inhale so much toxic fume from the improvised garbage burner you’ll be sad for at minimum of a day.
Recycling is practically non existent. There is no composting only mindless incineration. Although some local men collect plastic bottles, for an emerging recycling industry, earning their livelihood at .30 cents a kilo.
If you wish to contribute to lesser plastic you can use the Refill My Bottle app, so that you don’t keep buying plastic water bottles. For longer stays you can also opt for buying a big garrafon and get refill in the local shops for half the price you bought it for.
In the island there are 3 musks that sing their 4 times a day call to prayer. A sound I’ve come to enjoy. It’s a gentle reminder that it’s nice to take a few minutes during the day to just breathe.
Divergent to the many beers sold next to signs asking you to respect the culture by not running around in your bikini outside the beach or pool lounging areas. Of which there are plenty to choose from.
-
-
My favorite one was by far Skinny Dip Beach Club. Don’t be fooled by the name, there is no skinny dipping in this island, unfortunately.
Besides the spectacular design, the staff is super kind, friendly and cheerful. The food is amazing and they serve outstanding coffee with fast internet for you to catch up on those entrepreneurs goals. Do stay clear of the cocktails. They are quite possible the worst I’ve had and with a hefty price.
Around the island food options are plenty. Including Regina’s Pizza, known as the best pizzeria in all of Asia. A big claim... Regardless if it is true or not, rest assured the pizza is really nice.
Oddly enough there is also a classic Sunday Roast that’s been going on for years. One that includes not only homemade gravy but 2 different meat types and yorkshire pudding. It was legit!
Gili T is a small place that makes up in charm. Its waters are the clearest cyan I’ve ever seen. Best for snorkeling not so much for plain old swimming as the shores are filled with heaps of broken coral and the waves can get quite strong.
There are loud bars and yoga studios alike. Free roaming cattle. No dogs as I recently learnt, Muslims avoid them just like pigs. They are considered grubby. You will see loads of cats with very short tails. Fear not they are not mutilating them for some odd reason, it’s a trait of asian cats.
Unending palm trees, although the fresh coconuts served come from somewhere else. To some paradise to others a cheap backpackers destination. Somewhere to get drunk with cheap booze and a wild night of beer pong. To all, one of the best places in the world to catch the sunset.