Between Chicken Schnitzels and Ak47s in Haifa
 

Tuning into an overall vibe of inexplicable rudeness and apathy with a dash of gnarly stares.

Haifa, a northwest city in Israel, frequently overlooked or just visited as a day trip to checkout the Baha’i Gardens. A place avoided even by the locals, preferring places like Tel Aviv and Jerusalem as their home; even though it’s the third largest city and with cheaper housing than the aforementioned ones.

It is also home to the Technion Institute, one of the most innovative Universities in the world. Basically a place to come study and stay only if you nailed a job in one of the many big tech companies that have offices here.

For me it was a place to chill while planning our next move. Not expecting anything of it, I found it to be a hipster beachtown with great local food and awesome spots for a late afternoon stroll.

I also agree with the many travel blogs, that state visiting one of the most important sites for the Baha’i people, is both enreaching and breathtaking.

Located on the slopes of Mount Carmel, also known as the Persian Gardens, they’re a main attraction not just for their beauty but also for being home to the tomb of ʿAbd al-Bahāʾ, son of the founder of the Bahāʾī faith.

I spent a little over a week here on my trip to Israel and fell in love with the affordability of the city. Masada Street is the it spot, where you can see the coolest street art, chill in bohemian cafes and loads of bars and restaurants to choose from.

While looking into its history, I learnt that the city was under Palestine control for a while but after Israel regain jurisdiction, of the 50,000 arabs living here only about 3k chose to stay.

Understandable, given that the tension is still very much a thing. A place where it’s best to mind your own business or you might get caught unintendedly in a racial fracas.

Perhaps this is why the beaches end up being a well divided pie with a great deal of police force around and waters filled with jellyfish. Overly excited and an amateur traveller, I didn’t think this would be a problem so I jumped in the sea without thinking twice and got badly stung.

The first aid team were unhelpful and disregarding, pointing me towards dried out aloe vera plants. I was lucky this time and didn’t get a noticeable scar. But I have certainly made it a rule of thumb to double check before taking a dip in any sea water.

• Perhaps, I should have stayed lounging in one of the cafes, shisha in hand waiting for yet another mystical sunset. Another great place to be at sundown is the Louis Promenade, undoubtedly the best viewpoint in the entire city.

   

Growing up, I had always dreamt of visiting Israel. When my best friend invited my now husband and I to her mandatory visit to the Sacred Land we jumped at the opportunity. By this I mean we planned last minute to go.

Hence, we ended joining her for bits and pieces of her trip. Travelling from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, and Haifa for the in betweens; we were bewildered by how no trip was short of a stunning 18 year old in military gear, AK47 in hand, scrolling through the latest Instagram feed.

My friend explained that apparently, they have to travel in full gear just in case hell breaks loose and they need to spring into action.

Unfortunately, this is not something that made me feel safe or secure. Perhaps it was the inevitable tension or the bright red glossy lipstick on the female soldiers.

We quickly realized that if you don't speak hebrew, things can get overwhelming but if you are part of the lucky ones to have a local friend you will be treated as one of their own. Experience incredible hospitality. Get hefty discounts on the very pricey eating out experience. Shots of liquor included.

Even get Invited to home cooked feasts of local delicacies such as cheese bourekas and chicken schnitzels. Quite possibly one of the best meals of my life.

Loose the local and all bets are off!