the really good vs the nasty 

Here is your ultimate where-to-go and what-to-skip guide to discovering one of Europe’s hidden gems.

An amazing culinary scene and awesome drinking spots paired with beautiful architecture and a thriving cultural scene, this pretty much sums up why I fell absolutely in love with Zagreb.

The city has incredible architecture, designed to look like a living work of art. Beautiful parks are found in every corner followed by cool bars and tons of options to delight your taste buds. As a fantastic plus, there are so many affordable options to quench your cultural thirst, ranging from fine arts like opera and ballet to funky exhibitions exploring human behavior.

Zagreb is affordable and easy to navigate. When in the city center, walking is the best way to explore, as you will find it comfortable and with plenty of hidden alleyways with exciting shops and cafes to keep you interested. If you need to venture further out, the tram is well connected. The tickets can be bought at the kiosks all around town or in the tram itself. The price tag ranges from 4 kunas for half an hour to 30 kunas for a day pass and they run from 4:00 am to 12 midnight.

These are all fantastic traits of the country’s capital, however, there is one major fault that to me personally is a “full stop” deal breaker: there is no ban on indoor smoking! Therefore, most bars and even restaurants allow their customers to indulge in the pleasure of having a cigarette and, trust me, it becomes quite inescapable. Something that during the winter or rainy days is incredibly frustrating, making you feel like you are trapped in a cancerogenic bubble.

In the end, I opted for skipping the clubbing scene altogether, hit the restaurants and bars during the afternoon or early evening if possible, concentrating more on the cultural scene and this way avoiding the peak hours when eating and drinking places are full and therefore heavy smoking at its worst.

Honestly, it isn’t an ideal solution because it means missing out on a thriving party scene, but be that as it may, I’ll put my lungs first any day!

Here is a compilation of my favorites vs what to skip altogether - divided by category. I do hope you make it to Zagreb as it is totally worth the visit. And furthermost, I hope the authorities take care of the pressing health issue so that this thriving city can earn its rightful place as the spectacular destination it is.

The Torture Museum:

More like a really fun educational gallery. It is a walk down memory lane reminding or teaching us how humans have tortured each other for centuries. Seeing recreations of the objects and how they were used will definitely spook you. Also go ahead and do an impromptu photo shoot with the objects. It will make you feel both naughty and a part of history.

The Illusions Museum

An ultra wacky place! An exceptional option to go with kids or friends. Don’t go alone because you will probably find it a bit boring as some of the exhibitions are meant to be partner interactive. It is definitely a place to go let loose taking your inner child out to play.

 

 

 

 

 

The HK National Theatre:

This is such a must! It has ongoing functions ranging from Opera to ballet and the building is simply spectacular and probably one of the cheapest places to enjoy fine arts with tickets ranging from 50 to 170 kunas.

The Modern Gallery:

The place to go for a more artsy type of museum. It holds the most important and comprehensive collection of paintings, sculptures, and drawings of the 19th and 20th century by Croatian artists.

What to Skip

Museum of Broken Relationships:

It's cheesy, unappealing and plain old boring. Who wants to pay to go see an old teddy bear covered in snot.

Dolac Farmer’s Market:

By far one of the best fresh produce markets I’ve seen. It has so many options. Kale, honey, all types of fruits, local cheese, farmers eggs, nuts... The options are countless! Heads-up: the sellers are a bit grabby, trying to sell you more than you need or give you to try their stock (not always a bad thing) but just be firm on the quantities you want to buy and you’ll be fine.

Bio and Bio:

The perfect organic health shop. The staff is not intimidating, i.e. they’re super friendly and helpful. There is a range of options for all the good and healthy ingredients your soul desires. It is slightly on the pricier side so check first on the Dolac Market if they have those coveted seeds.

DM Stores:

Also, a fantastic option to stock up on seeds and nuts. They have a cheaper option for goji berries and almonds than Bio & Bio.

Kofer:

This is the perfect little shop to buy all the ingredients you need to make the G&T of your dreams. They have deliciously flavored tonic waters plus all the flavoring compliments you could possibly think off. Dehydrated pink fruit, red peppercorn, rosebuds? They have pink and red! And obviously really cool local and non-local gins. Also the perfect present for hat very cool friend back home.

What to Skip

Any other farmer's markets. If you have to go a bit out of your way to make it to Dolac, and you can, do so. All the other ones are way smaller and lack the character this one has.

Lake Jarun:

This place is magical. It is hard to describe why. The lake is surrounded by trees and a walking trail. The locals do rowing competitions. It just feels full of life. It honestly is the perfect place to have a little picnic and just watch the day go by.

Park Josipa:

This is the cool city center park. It has a gazebo, tall trees and benches all around. The perfect place to escape the bustling city and have nature whisper in your ears.

What to Skip

The Botanical Garden

A pretty park with just not much to see in it. It does have a cute red bridge if you are looking for an Instagramable shot.

 

 

Kod Sima:

The place to go if you want to indulge in local food. Their menu is heartwarming and you’ll feel like a Croatian grandma has been cooking away their traditional beef stew or goulash just for you. It is cheap, straightforward and honest cooking. Skip the local wine option and order the beer.

Kava Tava:

It’s that place where you can get your morning sugar fix. They do the fluffiest pancakes with the sweetest toppings. Do be prepared to pair it with a dash of cigarette smoke.

Smash Submarine Burgers:

This is what dreams are made of. The food is locally sourced, organic and with the best flavor. Order the local draft lager (so light and refreshing), with the Smokehouse burger accompanied with truffle fries. I would go again and again to this place. Their chef should honestly be awarded a Michelin star.

Insider’s tip: Skip the sliders, they are not worth it. Also, their staff isn’t the nicest either.

Medgrava Beer Pub:

They have the best pizza. It is fluffy yet not to thick and the meat toppings taste of very high quality. Do not miss out on this spectacular pizza!

The Swanky Monkey Hostel:

They have a pretty decent selection of wings. I would go back for those and wouldn’t mind ordering their fries and burger. However, when it comes down to it, Submarine kicks everyone’s ass.

What to Skip

Rocket Burgers:

Their food is unimpressive. The fries are just alright and the burgers are a slab of grease served by staff that look like they want to punch you in the face. You might as well just hit Macky D instead.

Craft Beer:

By no means order their food. The portions are really small and it tastes like it was prepared by a Croatian with an American complex.

Chocolat 041:

They serve the creamiest, richest, thick ice cream in all of Zagreb. I visited other ice cream parlors and they were so bad I forgot what they were called. It was hard to get over the hellish disappointment.

Another plus for Chocolat 041 is that they also have a wide selection of chocolate cakes that are so worth trying. The one with pistachio filling is a dream come true.

Medgrava Beer Pub:

The place to go enjoy a deliciously crafted brew. They have so many options and the taste is really clean and pure. Like beer should be.

The Old Pharmacy:

A cool pub with one good beer: Paulaner on draft, either the cloudy one or the clear one will quench your thirst and set you off on the right drinking path. You have to visit the place. The staff is really rude but after you have your beer in hand you will definitely enjoy lounging on one of their comfy leather couches whilst enjoying their vintage look.

A Most Unusual Garden:

The cool bar in town. They specialize in gins but their menu will have something for everyone. A bit far out of the city center but with the tram, you will be there in no time. A really good Friday night option.

The Garden Brewery:

They have two locations and their beer was one of my favorites. They do quirky seasonal beers like Milkshake and Peanut butter flavors if you are into that as well, and on the plus side, they do DJs and party events that are well worth checking out.

What to Skip

Tolkien’s House

By all means, don’t waste your time. The place has nothing to do with the author. The beers are average and there are way better bars to go to. Nonetheless, I must admit the staff is really friendly.

Bodega

It’s just ok for a drink or two but nothing special. The decor is fancy and the floor to ceiling wall bar has a really appealing inviting look to it but trust me is just another of the many bars of Zagreb.

Cogito Cafe:

Pricey but it will do the trick to satisfy your caffeine needs. Their locations are also really cute, so you will enjoy sitting there with your favorite cup of joe whilst working or people watching.

What to Skip

The Worst Coffee in Town

They truly honor their name. The coffee shop is inviting, perfectly minimalistic decor and hidden away in an alleyway. It will make you think you have just discovered the most amazing, hipster cafe of all times.

Your disappointment will be right in order with the first sip of their cold coffee and their pathetic excuse for a matcha latte, of course, the tab won’t be on the cheap side, so all together brace yourself for an epic disappointment.

The Swanky Monkey Hostel has a really cool dancing spot that could be worth checking out if you can stomach the smoking. I couldn’t personally get myself to do it as my throat suffered enough just hitting the local pubs and cafes.

The Funicular:

Don’t pay to get on it. It’s not worth the dollar. It is only about 30 steps, which you will probably walk way faster than this 1893 machinery. Do use the steps to go to the most amazing view of the city. Once you reach the top, to the right there is a really cute rooftop type bar. A bit on the pricier side but so worth investing a drink and taking in the beautiful city. Their Irish Coffee is pretty solid.

For a full 3-day plan check out Uniquely Zagreb in 72 hours.